Umbria Travel Guide

Why visit

Umbria is Italy at its very best. Rolling hills carpeted in green are broken only by rows of immaculate vineyards and serene olive groves. Picture-perfect towns and quiet cobbled street villages sit atop the peaks, offering staggering views across the valleys below. There are museums, castles, cathedrals and art galleries galore. And don’t even get us started on the food and wine! This is the land of truffles, rich cheese and scrummy products such as salami, sausages and porchetta. Lively festivals abound, and the region’s colourful history is evident at every turn. It is a place where you can do as much or as little as you like; go wine tasting, hiking or museum-hopping, or simply sit back and soak up the views from your villa.

When to visit

Umbria is a wonderful year-round destination, with its various charming towns, pastoral valleys and mountains each offering visitors something a little different. July and August are peak months and things can get a little crowded and hot, but the highlands offer respite from the masses and the heat. Spring is a beautiful time of the year in Umbria, the region is blanketed in green and the weather is warm but not humid, perfect for hiking and sightseeing.

Italians typically take their summer holidays during August and a mass exodus occurs as the populace flees to the coast. Be aware that if you head to Umbria during this time, you may find some of the smaller restaurants and shops closed, as the owners temporarily abandon their businesses in favour of the seaside.

Like spring, autumn is a great time to visit Umbria. During this time, visitor numbers drop, pleasant weather prevails and the famous grape harvest gets underway. Winters here can be cool (you’ll probably want to flick on the heating in your villa), but shouldn’t be discounted, particularly if you’re after a cultural tour of Umbria’s churches, museums and galleries.

Typical sights

• Perugia – Soak up the architecture and ambience of Umbria’s capital.
• Basilica di San Francesco, Assisi – Gawp at the stunning frescoes inside this magnificent medieval church.
• Spello – Weave through the cobbled backstreets of this walled hilltop town.
• Duomo of Orvieto – Appreciate the majesty of one of Italy’s finest Gothic cathedrals.
• Spoleto – Soak up the staggering views from Spoleto’s hilltop castle.
• Gubbio – Throw yourself into one of the vibrant festivals in one of Umbria’s oldest towns.
• Castello del Leone, Castiglione del Lago – Climb the watchtower of the 13th-century castle for views across Lake Trasimeno.
• Wine tasting – Take a tour of one of Umbria’s world famous vineyards.

Getting around

• Public transport: Italy’s regional trains are of excellent quality and offer a comfy ride, although in Umbria the network doesn’t quite extend to the hilltop hamlets. You will, however, be able to hop between towns such as Narni, Spoleto, Trevi, Assisi, Città del Castello, Todi and Perugia easily and affordably. If you plan on travelling by train, the Trenitalia website will be your go-to resource. Buses, although slower, are often a good option for hard-to-reach destinations.

• Cycling and walking: There are plenty of places to cycle in Umbria, both on a level path for beginners, or up some serious hills for the pro cyclists. Companies like Umbria Bike are great places to start as there you can rent bikes and get advice on the best routes close to your villa.Similarly, the walking and hiking in Umbria spans from gentle ambles to epic treks. The Umbria Tourist Guide has some great resources to point you in the right direction.

• By air: There is only one major airport in the Umbria region – Perugia San Francesco d’Assisi which is located in the centre of the region, close to Lake Trasimeno. The terminal can handle 500,000 passengers a year but still, this airport is only served by a handful of international carriers. The main one in the UK is Ryanair that flies from Stanstead. But, if you’re hiring a car, it’s worth exploring airport options within a couple of hours of your final destination; Rome, Florence and Pisa are all well-served by UK budget airlines.

• Hiring a car: Umbria’s undulating countryside is dotted with higgledy-piggledy towns, hidden-away villages and sprawling vineyards, and by far and away the best method of getting around is by car. While there is a fairly extensive public transport network, it does tend to be focused on the larger towns, and getting out to the more off-the-beaten-path areas can be somewhat time-consuming, not to mention logistically tricky. Driving around the countryside is one of the great joys of a visit too, and hiring a car will give you the flexibility to really get out and explore.

Hidden gems

• Lake Trasimeno is Umbria’s largest lake and offers a true slice of unspoilt Italy. Three islands dot the shimmering waters and small ferries drop adventurous visitors off on the tranquil shores where they can swim from the beaches, relax in rustic cafes, explore ancient castles and walk amid abounding nature.

• The hilltop town of Montefalco sits at the heart of Umbria’s wine country and is the home of the region’s flagship red, Sagrantino di Montefalco. A number of wine-related events take place here throughout the spring, summer and autumn months including harvest festivals and winery open days.

• La Scarzuola was once a Franciscan convent built by Saint Francis of Assisi, but today, thanks to the efforts of architect Tomaso Buzzi, this compound is a fantastical display of architecture and art. With elements of surrealist, classical, medieval and Renaissance architecture, it is a fascinating jumble of pools and stairs, bridges and theatres.

• Unlike its lofty hilltop neighbours, the laid-back town of Bevagna stands on lower plains. Its strong Roman heritage is evident in its mosaics and amphitheatre, and there are two beautiful Romanesque churches as well as a number of excellent, family-run restaurants and cafés to be discovered in its leafy little piazzas.

• The Marmore Falls are one of Italy’s highest waterfalls and the largest man-made waterfalls in all of Europe. Created by the Romans, they measure a dizzying 165 metres and the flow is controlled by a nearby hydroelectric power plant. Time your visit to coincide with the opening of the gates and watch as the water gushes out with force and tumbles through the densely wooded slopes.

• Towering 1,290 metres above sea level, Monte Subasio can be seen from all around Umbria. On its slopes are the ancient, pink-hued towns of Assisi and Spello, whose buildings were constructed using rocks hewn from the mountain itself. Whether you want to hike or go truffle hunting, the Monte Subasio Natural Park offers a wealth of opportunities to get out into nature.